Continuity and change in the culinary culture of the Ottoman palace in the 19th century

Abstract

This study undertook an introductory research about Ottoman culinary culture. In particular, the study sought to discover the changing and continuing characteristics of the Ottoman palace cuisine during the 19th century. In addition, a general description of Ottoman palace cuisine until the end of the 18th century was provided. The culinary consumption patters of the Ottoman palace together with the table etiquette and the food ceremonials were the basic topics considered in this project. The thesis used archival documents as its primary source. The Ottoman palace kitchen records of the Prime Ministry Archives were used to define the Ottoman palace kitchen due to the lack of recipes exclusive to the Ottoman palace. These lists, which belonged to the first half of the 19th century and which included the different kinds of food, tableware, and kitchen utensils supplied to the palace kitchens, had a significant role on the revelation of the consumption patterns of the Ottoman palace. Various travel accounts and memoirs, along with the Ottoman cookbooks published in the 19th century were additional primary sources used in this research study. The classical Ottoman cuisine which could be defined as Ottoman palace cuisine or istanbul cuisine was the outcome of a long historical background. From its nomadic past in Central Asia to the last days of the Empire, Ottoman culinary repertoire, along with culinary etiquette, cuisine and symbols has been enriched and changed to a great extent resulting in the formation a very sophisticated culinary culture. Nevertheless, the original characteristics have survived despite the acquisition of new ones. The adoption of new culinary models has gained momentum during the 19th century. Essentially, during the 19th century Ottoman culinary culture has entered into a new phase. The idea of "modernization" has left its marks on Ottoman culinary culture as has been the case with other aspects of life. The exercise of modem (alajranga) and traditional (alaturka) consumption patterns has created a dialectic in the culinary culture of the elite as well as that of the general public.